What is it about surfing? I don’t know yet, but right this moment I feel so good, so happy, and so full of love and I know this state comes from the four hours of surfing at Punta Burros this morning. I was catching small waves, medium size waves, waves that close out, waves that I fall off of, waves that I ride on my knees, and, every once in a while, waves that I stand up on, make turns on to stay in the clear shoulder, and ride all the way to shore. I even got stung by a jellyfish today—twice! It felt like someone was alternately dragging barbed wire across my feet and then burning them with fire. And still the feelings now are those of pure joy. Pure, clear, happy, joy.
What is it about surfing? I don’t know, but for as long as I can feel what I feel, I will keep surfing.