Sunday, March 21

What is it about surfing?


What is it about surfing?  I don’t know yet, but right this moment I feel so good, so happy, and so full of love and I know this state comes from the four hours of surfing at Punta Burros this morning.  I was catching small waves, medium size waves, waves that close out, waves that I fall off of, waves that I ride on my knees, and, every once in a while, waves that I stand up on, make turns on to stay in the clear shoulder, and ride all the way to shore.  I even got stung by a jellyfish today—twice! It felt like someone was alternately dragging barbed wire across my feet and then burning them with fire.  And still the feelings now are those of pure joy.  Pure, clear, happy, joy. 

What is it about surfing?  I don’t know, but for as long as I can feel what I feel, I will keep surfing. 

4 comments:

Jonathan said...

Connecting with the raw energy of the ocean, the salt and sunshine in your eyes and on your skin, scaring the living shit out of yourself, knowing that with every paddle you are getting stronger, being at the mercy of chance while getting rag-dolled inches above reef, lungs burning for thirty seconds, popping up and deciding to do it again. Bikinis.

Abigail said...

Yes yes yes! Replace "Bikinis" with "Surfer dudes who yell 'Paddle! Paddle! Paddle!' at me to help me catch waves and then rejoice when I do!

Amy said...

I hear you!! I am totally addicted to surfing too. When you get back to WA you should come with us to the strait. (it's colder than mexico, sadddd, but still can be really fun!)

Abigail said...

Hi Amy!
I would love to join you for surfing in the northland! In fact, just this morning I decided I would proceed with a full surfing wetsuit investment when I return north so that I can avoid the 6 months surfing drought until I next come to Mexico.
See you on the water!!
--Abigail